Why Ghana’s Parliament swapped suits for smocks

On Thursday morning, the usual sea of dark Western suits and silk ties in the Ghanaian Parliament was replaced by a vibrant, rhythmic display of hand-woven stripes and flared cotton.

In a rare "fashion sit-in," Members of Parliament from across the political divide arrived for their session wearing the traditional Northern smock, the fugu.

This wasn’t a scheduled cultural holiday. It was a calculated, unified response to a social media storm thousands of miles away in Zambia that has turned a piece of clothing into a symbol of continental identity.

The spark: A state visit and a "Blouse"

The controversy began earlier this week when Ghanaian President John Dramani Mahama touched down in Lusaka, Zambia.

Stepping off the plane in a ceremonial fugu, he was met with a wave of mockery from sections of Zambian social media.

Unfamiliar with the garment’s flared silhouette and heavy embroidery, some critics dubbed it a "blouse" or a "dress," questioning why a head of state would eschew a formal suit for a state visit.

The reaction in Ghana was swift. What began as a "clapback" on X (formerly Twitter) evolved into Thursday’s parliamentary display. "We are here to tell our brothers and sisters in Zambia, and the world, that this is our identity," one MP noted. "If they see a 'blouse,' we will show them the attire of warriors."

The warrior’s Armour: What is the Fugu?

For those outside West Africa, the fugu (also known as batakari) might look like a simple tunic, but its details tell a story of ancient power.

• The Origins: The smock originated among the ethnic groups of Northern Ghana, such as the Dagomba, Mamprusi, and Gonja. Historically, it was a warrior’s garment. The thick, hand-loomed cotton strips were designed to be durable, and the flared bottom allowed for ease of movement on horseback.
• The Craftsmanship: Every fugu is a labor of love. It is made from "man-cloth", narrow strips of fabric woven on traditional looms, then hand-stitched together. The intricate embroidery around the neckline isn’t just decorative; it often signifies the status of the wearer.
• A Symbol of Revolution: The garment famously moved from the northern savannahs to the global stage in 1957. Ghana’s founding father, Kwame Nkrumah, chose to wear the fugu while declaring independence from British colonial rule. It was a deliberate rejection of the "colonial suit" in favor of indigenous dignity.

Fashion Diplomacy

The "Fugu War" has taken an unexpected turn toward unity. Rather than taking offense, Zambian President Hakainde Hichilema moved to de-escalate the tension with humor and "fashion diplomacy."

During a business forum in Lusaka, President Hichilema admitted he had been following the online debate and revealed he has already placed an order for his own Ghanaian smocks. "It seems I need to upgrade my wardrobe," Hichilema joked, signaling a shift from a cultural clash to a moment of trade and appreciation.

A Lesson in Heritage

As the photos of Ghana’s "Smock Parliament" go viral, the message is clear: in the age of globalization, African heritage is not a costume, it is a statement of sovereignty.