Nigeria’s aso-oke weaving tradition gains global spotlight

In Iseyin, a quiet town in southwestern Nigeria, shaded corners and narrow alleys have become busy hubs for weaving aso-oke, a traditional Yoruba fabric.

Long produced by hand, the thick, often brightly colored textile is deeply rooted in cultural heritage and identity.

Demand for aso-oke is rising sharply, both within Nigeria and internationally, driven in part by the diaspora and the growing global influence of Nigerian fashion and music. Once reserved mainly for wealthy elites and special occasions, the fabric is now widely used for ceremonies, everyday wear and bold contemporary designs.

Local artisans insist that hand-weaving remains essential to preserving aso-oke’s quality and authenticity, even as production expands. The surge in popularity is also creating jobs in communities like Iseyin, where weaving is offering new opportunities to younger generations.

Designers say aso-oke’s growing visibility on international runways in cities such as London and Paris is helping elevate it into a global fabric. At the same time, its expansion abroad is raising concerns about cultural ownership and the need to protect its origins.

Despite these tensions, aso-oke continues to evolve, bridging tradition and modern fashion on a global stage.