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DRC: Kinshasa's 'sapeurs' honor the father of Congolese elegance

A model presenting dresses by CAR fashion designer looks on during the ninth edition of the Liputa fashion show in Goma, Democratic Republic of Congo, Saturday June 24, 2023.   -  
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Moses Sawasawa/Copyright 2021 The AP. All rights reserved.

Democratic Republic Of Congo

In the heart of Kinshasa, dozens of impeccably dressed "sapeurs" gathered recently to commemorate the father of their movement—a subculture where fashion becomes art, dignity, and even a livelihood in one of the world's poorest countries.

Standing before the tomb of Stervos Niarcos, who died 31 years ago, sapeurs paid tribute to the man whose 1989 song "La Religion Ya Kitendi" elevated the pursuit of elegance into a way of life. "

He is the father of all sapeurs in Congo and even the world," said Djika Ziana, proudly displaying his crocodile-effect leather accessories.

More than fashion

The Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People, known as La Sape, emerged during colonial times when young Congolese began adopting and reimagining European attire.

"Sape is an art and a culture," explained sapeur Jeremie Mavula.

Fellow practitioner Koko Lingwala added that a true sapeur is creative and hardworking—someone who "can even sell flowers, earn money to buy new clothes, send their children to school."

A path to opportunity

For Mathis Kas, a rare female sapeuse from Brazzaville, elegance opened doors.

With modeling contracts and beer advertisements, she says Sape has given her "a value I might never have achieved."

While spending fortunes on designer clothes in a nation where 85% live on under $3 daily may seem extravagant, she insists it allows her to "feed" her family. "Being a sapeur is first about loving dignity," she added.

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