Art, performance and heritage on the runway at Lagos Fashion Week

Nigerian designer Bubu Ogisi brought a blend of performance, installation and spirituality for her show on the final day of Lagos Fashion Week.

Her label IAMISIGO explores the boundaries between fashion and art with handcrafted, one-of-a-kind pieces made from materials sourced across Africa.

“I think we're just showing people how to sort of disrupt and disassociate yourself from the status quo," Ogisi says. "Strategies have already been in place but also can be created afresh, so I think that's what we're also presenting to everyone.”

Throughout the five-day event, African designers turned the runway into a vibrant mix of heritage and fresh vision - their creations reflecting the diversity of African design, with bold looks and storytelling.

“What I found incredible here, first of all, is the use of colour, which I think is quite different from what we might be used to seeing in Europe," says French visual artist Hubert Crabieres.

"The colours, and a kind of architectural construction of the garments, which is much more expressive and not necessarily at all about achieving something very minimal. That's quite surprising, but I think it also reflects the experience I've had of Lagos. All our senses are constantly being stimulated here.”

Lagos Fashion Week celebrates and provides a market for local brands. But the size and scope of the annual event also reflects Africa’s growing influence on the global fashion industry.

Amina Ladymya, Senegalese content creator and designer based in Milan: “Right now, when we see with [certain Western] luxury brands what is happening, there is that lack of "wow." I think creatives have overdone themselves in a certain way, where right now there is this missing thing [we are missing the feeling] of seeing something that can really touch you inside. And I think what is happening here right now is what's missing in that way, which means that all the designers are very talented.”

As well as showcasing African talent, Lagos Fashion Week is also focused on building and strengthening the industry. The event included conversations about business financing, intellectual property rights and worker welfare to ensure the industry is sustainable and commercially viable for the creative teams behind the designs.