Chef preserves Hatay's culinary heritage after devastating earthquake

More than three years after the devastating 2023 earthquakes, one chef in Turkey's hardest-hit province is preserving the region's rich culinary traditions through a cookbook inspired by loss, resilience, and community.

Chef and cookbook author Şemse Gökalp says the disaster changed her life and motivated her to use her cooking and social media platforms to help survivors.

"The sixth of February was a turning point for all of us... I tried to do whatever I could through my own profession. During those difficult days, I put my activity on social media for it to be of use."

Her book, "Kırık Tabaklar," or "Broken Plates," combines traditional Hatay recipes with the personal stories of people she met while volunteering after the earthquake.

The title carries a deeply personal meaning.

Zübeyde Gökalp Kanat, Şemse Gökalp's Sister-in-law: "After the earthquake, her uncle passed away. Some time later Şemse said: let this book be called 'Broken Plates,' because during the earthquake we set our tables with whatever we had in our hands. We ate off those broken plates."

Gökalp says she feared Hatay's world-renowned cuisine might disappear after many renowned chefs were lost in the disaster. Instead, she witnessed food bringing communities together.

"We fell into despair... but afterward, during the recovery process, I saw that once again the table brought us together... I saw that Hatay cuisine wasn't forgotten. People would keep Hatay cuisine alive, one way or another."

For many in Hatay, preserving family recipes has become another way of rebuilding a community determined not to lose its identity.